european horizon – day 5 (tyrol region, austria to venice)

 by now you know the routine. early wake up, breakfast, then endless driving. this time we reach venice 2pm. check in , then travel by chartered ferry to venetian islands from our campsite on the mainland.

nothing much to note here. visited st marks square, then had a gondola ride. ( you know all the touristy stuff.) while gently gondola-ing through the narrow canals, a light bulb flicked on in my head. where in venice is Harry’s Bar? to a foodie like me, Harry’s Bar is one of the seven wonders of the world. the place where people treat the journey there like a pilgrimage.

armed with map of venice and a little idea of where the place is, it took me 20 hurried minutes to track the place down. amazingly it’s easy to locate. got to piazza san marco (st marks square), face museo corrér (this will mean your back faces the basilica san marco). walk through the museo corrér, cross the first street, then turn left at the second called Calle Vallaresso. walk straight and Harry’s Bar is located at the end.

look for this street. face this and turn left. Harry's Bar located at the end

the first thing that you see will be a very nondescript looking door:

Harry's Bar hallowed entrance

for such a celebrated bar, it’s impressive that unlike other more famous establishments the entrance is relatively normal. if you didn’t look closer, you’ll sure to miss it. enter it and join others who have made their mark in history in one way or another most famously, ernest hemingway among other luminaries. tip: do not be alarmed by the high prices you see on the menu posted outside on the side of the entrance. you are not required to order food. (though you could if you have a big fat wallet)

once inside the bar, get yourself the seat at the bar which is the best. there you can savour your drinks while watch the expert bartenders concoct cocktails. (for your information: upon entering the bar, look across the room to the right corner. the table at that corner is supposedly ernest heminway’sfavourite table.) one thing to note. Harry’s may be the best and most expensive restaurant in venice but people throng the establishment for one thing and one thing only: a Bellini cocktail. ask the bartender what goes into the iconic drink and you will get this simple reply: peach and champagne. simple but deceptive. here they make the Bellinis not by measuring the amounts but through experience. however it is easy to make. take one part pureed white peach and mix with about 2 parts champagne. stir very gently. ( at Harry’s for some reason, they do not stir).

the Bellini is served with some salty olives on the side. somehow, i think the olives are to heighten the flavour of the drink. spend as much time as you want at the bar and enjoy yourself thouroughly. in fact, watchingthe bartender making drinks is an art in itself. unlike flashy modern bars where a bartender does more entertaining than mixing, the pros here do it the traditional way they have been doing since 1931 that being a bartender, concoting a customer’s drink is his one job only.

i can go on for hours on end and yet am still unable to describe the entire place in all honesty. one thing is for sure. Harry’s Bar is one of the world’s most venerable institutions. hearing about the place from others who’ve been there is woefully inadequate. to experience it fully, you must be there yourself.

tomorrow: venice to switzerland